Now we pause for a restaurant review, as R.D. Lang takes you to the Hogfish Grille in St. James City. 

Once upon a time there was once an excellent little seafood restaurant in St. James City on Pine Island called The Lobster Shack.  Hungry customers by the hundreds would brave their way down to the southern end of Stringfellow Road for an incredible, and reasonably priced, lobster roll made famous by a glowing review in Gulf Shore Magazine.   

In late 2004, the ownership changed hands.  The restaurant quickly went downhill.  The quality of the food suffered.  Legions of hard-won and loyal customers had bad experiences and began looking for other restaurants to frequent.  Business slowed to a trickle.

A few months back there were rumors that The Lobster Shack in St. James City on Pine Island had been taken back by the original owners.  It all began with the following post on the popular restaurant directory http://www.chefmoz.org:

"ANYONE WHO HAD A BAD EXPERIENCE IN 2005 AND 2006 PLEASE COME BACK! I AM THE ORIGINAL OWNER AND HAVE TAKEN THE BUSINESS BACK. WE ARE SURE WE HAVE THE BEST FOOD, ATMOSPHERE AND SERVICE IN THE AREA AS REPORTED BY JEAN LE BOUEF. WE HAVE OPENED A NEW SUSHI/OYSTER BAR AT THE DOCK AND STILL HAVE A BEAUTIFUL DINING ROOM AND PLENTY OF DOCK SPACE FOR BOATERS.    [06 May 2007 10:03:50]  ---SYLVIA RIGGIN, OWNER"

Perhaps it was time to give an old favorite a new chance.

I decided to call and see if the Lobster Shack was open for lunch.  After a few rings, a female voice answered the phone, “Thank you for calling The Hogfish Grill, how may I help you?”

Expecting The Lobster Shack, I wasn’t sure if I had the right number.  “Is this the Lobster Shack?” I asked.

“Yes,”

“Are you open for lunch today?”

“Yes,”

“Well…I guess I’ll be right over.”

After my relaxing ride from Cape Coral to Pine Island, I drove right past The Hogfish Grille which was right in the same rustic pink building The Lobster Shack used to be in.  Apparently they’ve changed their name.

There are some new mediterranean-style condos freshly built across the street...those were'nt there before.  Does it ever stop?

The exterior is now adorned with a new “Hogfish Waterfront Grille” logo.  The entrance is now located out back.  The outdoor bar area overlooks dockside seating on the Monroe Canal.

Dockside Seating

Don’t be alarmed by the Christmas tree you’ll see as you come around the corner.  The decoration theme here is Christmas Everyday.

Patio Seating

On the other side of the waterfront bar are some tables on a covered patio.  Sea grape leaves and other native flowers and foliage line the borders of the outdoor dining area.  The canal glistens and boats quietly go by giving the outside atmosphere a warm and tropical tone.

Glistening Canal

As we entered the restaurant it was a seat-your-self situation.  You need to remember…this is Pine Island.  It’s casual.  It’s Island Time.  It’s laid back, and if you want to enjoy yourself you should get laid back, too.

We chose our old “regular” table in the windowed-in porch-type area just outside the main dining room.  Some minimal effort at autumnal decorating had been made in the form of gourds on each table.  Thick disposable napkins and preset silverware covered the tables.  The interior was clean, but still contained the slight mustiness it has for years.  Perhaps it’s time to change the drab rug.

Porch Dining Area

There were two or three parties seated out on the dock and one other party seated inside with us. 

After a minute or two, the sole waitress let us know she’d be right over.

A commercial radio station played nostalgic country tunes along with the dull hum of the window unit air conditioner.  The music aligned perfectly with the setting.  I felt transported back to a simpler time, an era without so much rush and hurry.  A place without CNN and email.  A small vacation-town setting where you can watch the sun slowly sink towards the horizon.  Absolutely refreshing.

Now, this is Pine Island, so we were offered drinks before we were even offered menus.  I went for a Michelob Amber Bock, only because they didn’t offer Guinness, and my dining partner chose a glass of the house merlot.

The beer arrived with an ice cold mug.  When she put the wine down, I couldn’t believe the pour…it must have been ten ounces, quite a sight in this six ounce world we’ve somehow become.  But, then again, this is Pine Island.  They take their drinks seriously.

A short stretch thereafter we were given lunch menus.  These are basically limited versions of the much larger dinner menu.  But we had come today for the lobster roll.  Would it be the high-piled northern-style lobster rolls we had gotten back in the glory days, or would it be the anemic, mayo-heavy disgrace we got on our last visit?

We did pick two small starters.  I went with the New England clam chowder.  My partner chose the homemade chili with cheddar cheese.  The waitress had informed us the chili was “killer”.   How could we say no to that?

Both were cup-sized portions.  Both were excellent.  The clam chowder was thick and hearty with many large chunks of clam and a slight brine taste accented with thyme.  The beef-rich chili was mildly spiced and topped with shredded cheddar cheese and scallions.

A couple drinks later (and, yes, the second glass of wine was as big as the first), the lobster roll suspense was really starting to build.  Everything so far had been on the up and up…but the arrival of two sub-par lobster rolls to the table would ruin the meal.

Imagine the joy that spread across my face when the waitress put down two lobster rolls that would make even a Cape Cod restaurant proud.  Fresh lobster meat with chopped celery, a delicate seasoning & a touch of mayo, served cold on a grilled bun with shredded lettuce plus fries and cole slaw just like the menu stated.  Hell, they even threw in a couple small slices of lemon and cantaloupe to garnish the plate.

Lobster Rolls and Wine

Now, I’m assuming the lobster was frozen, that’s how most lobster rolls, even up north, begin their short and satisfying lives…but it tasted fresh and that’s all that mattered.  It wasn’t water-logged or freezer-burned.  It wasn’t lobster scraps cut down to the size of ground beef.  It wasn’t a tiny scoop of lobster puree in the center of a lettuce-filled and lightweight hot dog bun.  It wasn’t any of the shady or scandalous tricks the few other restaurants that actually serve lobster rolls in Southwest Florida try to pull on a regular basis.  This was tender and succulent big chunks of tail and claw meat on a buttered and grilled bakery bun…and for a very reasonable $14.95.

Lobster Roll Closeup

We meandered our way slowly through the meal, pausing for conversation and talk of the childhood memories the old country tunes brought back.  The waitress, though clearly inexperienced, was affable and unobtrusive.  Her quirky personality and accommodation to our few requests added to the charm of our experience.  And she hit a high note when she came back around after we had emptied our dinner plates and told us, “It looks like you’re just about ready for some key lime pie.”

The key lime pie…amidst all the lobster fanfare I had completely forgotten about the key lime pie.  That key lime pie…the one I have judged all other key lime pies up and down both coasts of Florida and all the way to Key West against.  The old key lime pie I used to love at The Lobster Shack.

When she brought it out, it was the one…that key lime pie…firm, tart, creamy, with the graham cracker crust…just as good as it ever was.  The canned whipped cream could use a homemade upgrade, but the pie holds its own with, or without, any additional condiments or accessories.  A little slice of heaven on a plate.

Key Lime Pie

We took our time winding down and finishing our drinks and the pie.  Check service was handled expediently.  The waitress asked us to make sure every thing was “Peachy Keen”.  And it was….peachy keen and killer.

As we left the building, I engaged in some polite conversation with a restaurant employee who was smoking tens of pounds of mullet out on a huge grill over by the canal.

“How long you down for?” he asked.

“We live right over the bridge in Cape Coral.” I answered.

“Funny how it’s just a few miles away, but it seems like a whole other world, isn’t it?” 

It sure is.

So, here’s the bottom line for The Hogfish Grill:

Is it fine dining?  No. 

It’s a charming, rough-cut gem of an Old Florida restaurant offering a unique experience which seems to be disappearing as fast as all the empty building lots on Pine Island.  It’s a place where you can leave your watch at the door.  It’s a place where you can enjoy a leisurely well-cooked meal and a long conversation without feeling rushed out the door.  It’s a place where they’re friendly and appreciate your business. 

It’s a place a lot of other local restaurants could learn a thing or two from.

We’ll be visiting again.  Hopefully soon.

R.D. Lang is the nom de plume of a regular joe who dines on his own dime.